have to be honest the results were gratifying
for all the effort and expense but I am running
stronger cams etc; than what a OEM would run,
and the boost way in excess of the Shelby and
I think I may have found reason for slight
stutter problem I have mentioned. In doing
extensive data logging I have found that Bank 1
- 02 sensor occasionally throws up a fault code.
Not consistent and no MIL light, but can now
understand what route to go now for hopeful
Twin plate clutch due today, so will post a
couple of pictures later for anyone interested
and once installed, up the anti a little more to
20psi boost and go for a nice round
The Dyno Run.
Following the 1st run on the Dyno Dynamics
rolling road I queried the BHP output figure.
The dyno operator said that they were all
correct and then conducted a further 2 runs
which gave readings all within 10bhp.
He then conducted one further run (4th run) but
with engine temps rising slightly and intake
temp rising the result was down by 20bhp.
Had a break and a cup of coffee, engine cooled
and then we commenced the final run. Output back
up to 629.7bhp with 585 ft/lbs torque. The power
and torque curves are nice and smooth, with a
boost pressure reading from the dyno of 16.2 psi
(in car gauge shows 17psi. A/F ratio stable and
no excess water temp issues, staying steady
between 80/90 C.
Smelt rubber on last run which would suggest
tyre slippage on rollers!!! Definitely rubber
and not clutch smell.
Below are 4 attachments:-
dyno result, FEB 2006 R/R day, with 5.0L N/A
engine. Hummmm!!Todays R/R dyno showing BHP
and Torque figures.
Out of interest, all be it not exact to a
fine detail but to produce a comparison,
superimposed the results of today alongside
the 99 Cobra/SHM/Roush graph posted earlier
I was going
to include an extract showing a dyno result
of an 03 Cobra with similar S/C and cams,
but uncertain as to publicity rights? so
refrained! If anyone interested I could PM
you. Included instead today's FWHP and the
RWHP figures for comparison.
All the above has been achieved in having fun
developing this wonderful motor car and whilst
every effort has been taken to ensure accuracy,
there is no accountability should there be any
Next stage, to rectify a slight off idle niggle
within the engine management, install smaller
S/C pulley to go to 20psi if possible, and
install the Motec800 software to fine tune
further, if at all possible. In cruise mode (ie
legal to just above!!!) the mpg return shows
20/21mpg. On rollers or track drops a little
to 7-8 mpg.
This post concludes the article on taking a
standard 4.6L 4V from 310/320bhp to the present
Before - 358 bhp
After - 629 bhp
After - 629 bhp
SV - SVR - SVR Comparison
A technician is visiting on Sat to:
a) disconnect the Omnitec which he says will not
involve cutting any wires, like the sound of
b) to reprogram the ECU relating to the new
engine, ie,a Ford Mustang Cobra untouched by
others!!! to the existing security system.
If this all works out ok I can then see to
mapping and flashing this ECU which I hope will
not have the MG and other and other etc 's
inputs into the s/w.
Attached a couple of pics showing the rain cover
for the Alternator, and the moulded 3 gauge pod
binnacle to accept the Boost, Fuel and Oil
Spoken to Anderson & Ryan who will recover my
binnacle. They will supply clips and have been
told that I can see what else I might need for
these redundant, bespoke interiors.
Idle has never
been what I would call OEM perfect on the
standard engine. Up and down on RPM and
hesitant. SnR improved it but did not become
perfect with MIL light on and off. With the new
installation and new engine harness installed
and a little tidy up no DTCs shown and MIL now
behaves. Now I have the modified the engine the
new program in the ECU is no good on idle so
having to look to remap. This Supercharger ECU
program has a chip installed, which while the
supplier feels should be ok this cannot be
I have never been a great fan of chipping,
prefer to re-flash ECU with modified settings.
This is where:
a) I get a new ECU to talk to the remainder of
system and then start a remap programme,
b) stay with a chip but get the necessary to
rewrite new chips, or.
c) go the whole hog and get a Motec engineer to
install my M800 and the have the best of all
worlds in mapping the ECU.
Fitting addition gauges is for my peace of mind,
so as I can see what's going on so yes this is
something I proposed following decision to go
down the Supercharger route. However, I do
require the 3-gauge pods to look OEM.
Carried out a couple of short road trials. In
short the s/w setup not to good on idle and
pickup. Seeking further map setups and going to
talk to Roush or consider a Motec800
installation, which I have sitting here doing
nothing at present. Need to find a reputable guy
who knows Motec setups. Have a guy coming to
remove the Omnitec and possibly reprogram a ECU
to the security system.
That's the preamble, now once off idle and say
less than 1/4 throttle, press throttle for say
normal acceleration and the boost comes in
immediately. Will require a far better setup
than the existing on/off MGR unit. As its a new
engine with lots of new components I don't wish
to push at moment, but 10psi comes up easily on
these small throttle openings, so what will
Pleasing bit is that all the work I have carried
out has effectively turned out as planned and
the engine is a lot quieter than the original
Also replaced the cold (in winter/hot in summer
gear knob). Never liked the alloy one so fitted
a original leather Cobra gear knob.
When I get idle/pickup problem resolved I will
let you know on performance, and the final
decision on gauge mounting. I'm talking to
upholsters who know these cars and discussing
various options, regarding gauge pod and the
Fitting a 3-gauge
pod for the following - Fuel pressure, Oil
Pressure and Boost Pressure.
Fuel Pressure, which I add is electric operated
inside the car, but is mechanical to the
pressure sender and then driver friendly wiring
inside the car. Oil pressure is similar.
now have to remove the rear panel upholstery to
access to the fuel pump/filter (what a poor
thought by MGR in not making the fuel filter
easily accessible) to install the BAP to give
increased fuel pressure when on boost.
Turn on key, hit the start button an "walla" she
fires up immediately, now that I have set
throttle body stop screw and adjusted TPS to
read .96/.98Volts at idle. 1200/1000/900/all in
about 2 mins.
With low temp stat: fitted the fans come on at
about 75 C on idle and at 85C the high speed
comes in. Keeping cooler restricts detonation
and will hopefully give better Air/Fuel ratio.
Still have to run on road yet (Air con being
charged next Weds) so following this I will fit
clamshell and then see how it runs on the
Accompanying photos will show you that I am at
the final stage in he quest of more power (Sorry
about the poor quality but in the garage and no
high intensity lighting and all the black bits
makes for poor pictures. I will take some
outside in natural light over Xmas).
As can be seen the engine and gearbox are now
installed. The electrics for BAS, BAP, oil
pressure, fuel, boost gauges are coupled up.
Also coupled up the water system for the
intercooler. That little episode took a while
deciding where and how to fit.
I've modified the brackets for the engine
electric box so as the rather nice induction
manifold/intake lays nice and straight with no
severe bends as per the standard layout.
Also, decided to fill box with Redline D4 ATF as
this works better in colder climates and
improves shift quality, apparently. 3 litres of
fluid was required to fill to 0.75 below filler
plug as recommended by Tremec and Mustang
owners. This improves the shift quality I am
Need to Bleed the brakes, fit the Propshaft,
exhausts, EVAP canister, and lots of connections
to gauges/ancillaries yet. The next most
important operation is to fit the clamshell to
check for clearances. Most important as I want
the car to remain original looking from the
Could possibly fire up over the Christmas
period, or maybe not if the engine management do
not talk to each other. Fingers crossed.
Fitted the new
supercharged engine and gearbox into the SV
today. I can tell you it is a struggle to get
all lined up and secure. In reality this engine
mass wise to large for engine bay but it does
fit after a struggle. the pictures show empty
engine bay and engine gearbox assembly. Now
trying to remember where everything came off.
The bright glowing unit on the centre picture is
the boost-a -spark unit. It doubles the normal
spark to prevent the spark from blowing out
under boost. Also fitting the BAP to assist fuel
pressure. Some tuners pooh-pooh this unit but I
have used similar units on various Supercharged
engines and for power I have needed these units
to meet requirements as only work on what boost
you set for the BAP to come in.
Also have a shift light unit coming from the
States, which I personally found very useful in
my HSV when thrashing around the track. I don't
have time to look at rev counter, so this is a
very good, cheap, and relatively easy to install
Located where the
engine management ECU resides and a difficult
task to remove it. If any one has problems
removing their dash for whatever reason ask me
and I'll explain how to gain access to the ECU
and remove it (if required). Plus those who are
consider upgrading to later production air vents
and need assistance please call!
camshaft adjustable sprockets are engineered
very nicely. The adjustment available is 12
degrees, so should enable cam timing to be
Attached is a picture of the Kevlar clutch plate
I am thinking of fitting, capable of 600 ft/lbs
torque/bhp. Still in the indecisive stage at
this moment as not sure how easy street driving
with be, even though Fidanza state, bed in on
street driving for 700 miles and all will be ok.
I will let you know on this one when I bolt the
gearbox to the engine. Also have a H/D
organic/ceramic clutch but not rated to accept
such high torque.
including the base SV engine, however I've up
upgraded most of the components to date!
Kenne Bell S/C kit with addition pulleys and
boost and fuel gauges, boost a spark, boost a
pump, 8 rib pulley set and belt, intercooler
etc, ran out at $8710, all the parts
,ie,pistons, rods, cams, bolts, studs, gaskets,
clutch ass, cam sprockets, flywheel, etc at
approx $4900. So about $13610 @ $1.86 to £ =
Further info on rebuild of engine. Pistons,
rods, camshafts with stronger springs all
installed with ARP bolts/studs throughout
fitted. Installed Billet steel oil pump
assembly; and ignition trigger wheel, as
apparently original prone to break up at high
valve springs used with the Crower cams stage 2
for supercharge are really strong so I had to
manufacture a special valve spring compression
tool to refit the collets.
The pictures show the engine with the RH head
fitted and the LH ready,ie the ARP studs as
against std bolts used by OEM.
If trying to run 16/18 psi boost all these
components will be necessary to stop head
gaskets failure, from the information I've
gleaned. PLUS the fitting of the Diamond Pistons
with offset wrist pins (gudgeon pins to us
limeys/poms) these forged pistons should
hopefully not rattle (piston slap) to much on
I have now sourced camshaft timing gears that
are fully adjustable enabling + or - 12 degrees
of adjustment. Await delivery (3 weeks) before I
can fit and time up camshafts. Also ordered a
puck type clutch plate to go with steel billet
flywheel and heavy duty pressure plate.
Taken delivery of
all bits required and decided to upgrade to a
"puck" type clutch plate that I am told will
handle in excess of 850bhp (I should be so
lucky). Also received FPRC shorty headers,
Centreforce Billet steel flywheel etc. At
present I'm installing Diamond Pistons (forged 9
to 9.3 CR), Manley forged rods, ARP bolts, with
a lot more goodies to come.
believe the standard CR on the 4.6 is 10:1. The
Diamond pistons I am fitting have a 11cc dish
which will give me a 9 to 9.3 CR with the 53 cc
head. Hopefully with this lower CR a boost of
maximum around 16 psi can be possible, but I do
have pulleys to take to 18 psi if I want to push
the boundaries. All this is way into the
future, as I propose to gently increase power.
Shorty headers arrived today to replace the cast
manifold fitted as standard. They look alright
on the outside but will require some dressing up
on the inside for better gas flow. The camshafts
are specifically for supercharged application
with far more duration than std: plus greater
lift by 2mm approx. I have also some stronger
springs to fit.
The rebuild of
the engine and fitment of the supercharger I do
not see a problem, but I will have to re-route
certain parts of s/c ancillaries to fit within
The plan is to:
build the revised engine,
install heavy duty clutch,
uprated gearbox and then
Install new assembly: and possibly slave up
certain items, turn key to see what happens!!!!
If all is successful, bearing in mind that a
different ECU with chip will be installed in the
MGR electronics, I can then proceed to tidy up
and ensure all components clear any
Having purchased FPR shorty headers I am unsure
as to the fitment and clearance to chassis
members. There are lots of unknown questions at
the moment at present. But when complete, a run
on a RR to see what the BHP figures are compared
to our Silverstone results is a must.
very large boxes with Supercharger parts have
arrived (see pictures). They parts are the slave
assembly for the extra pulleys and for the
resiting of the alternator. I discovered
immediately that I will have to manufacture
spacers to align the pulley tensioner so as the
belts line up with all the idler /drive pulleys.
I purchased 2 crankshaft damper pulleys,
one standard size for boost to 12psi and a
that fits over standard pulley being larger
to produce 16-18psi desired boost. Smaller
alternative pulley fitted and all 8 ribbed
as against standard 6 ribbed.
Apparently 6 is ok for up to 12psi but any
higher and 8 gives greater grip with no
slippage. With all the experience and work
involved I will go for maximum output in the end
and see where it all ends up. Still awaiting the
remainder of parts to arrive so as I can start
taken delivery of the supercharger kit today. I
have dealt with 3 different S/C companies when I
ran my Holden HSV but I must say the initial
inspection and comments on this kit (me being a
retired precision materials/manufacturer guy) is
excellent, and far exceeds the previous
suppliers. Not only is the workmanship spot on
but the instructions and packaging are second to
none. I now await to see if the engine parts
turn up the same!
newly acquired engine is ready and awaiting, new
rods, pistons, cams, ARP studs, bolts etc. The
supercharger kit is ordered and hopefully being
despatched Tuesday. I'm awaiting the
confirmation of my order for the above parts &
components. I decided to go for a 9:1
competition ratio as I want some low down
flexibility and a bit of grunt along with a half
decent mpg. Because I've decided to fit
"supercharger" cams along with uprated springs,
I've have decided to polish and flow the ports
too. These ports are as rough as a badgers ****.
The SV for information has a std.4.6 cobra 99-01
New engine in
process of strip down for fitment of all forged
components to hopefully run to 18psi of boost.
This will involve a period of time (sourcing
parts plus a delivery period etc).
The first picture is of the new engine a 4.6
99-01 Cobra engine.